CROZET, Pays de Gex, France - - This stylish hotel and restaurant complex with the touch of a southern African luxury game and sports lodge is a relatively new addition to the Lake Geneva Region. Situated in a 35-hectare park just outside the small French town of St Genis in the Pays de Gex at the foot of the Jura mountains, it offers a spectacular view of Geneva and the Alps, barely ten minutes drive from the airport. During the summer, the outside terrace of the Shamwari Restaurant with its comfortable Bauhaus wicker armchairs and white parasols makes an ideal waterhole for sundowners. Jivahill’s particular attraction is that it doubles as a spa country club with an elaborate wellness centre, horse riding, golf practise area, water skiing and jogging track. Rare among Swiss and French restaurants, there is also a play area for kids. Overall, this is not a bad place for business meetings or seminars within sight of Geneva – and in a healthy, open-air environment.

The Shamwari Restaurant, unfortunately, does not quite make the grade despite its aspirations as an “haute lieu” of French cuisine. It is expensive and reminds us somewhat of the luxury La Reserve Hotel restaurant in Bellevue outside Geneva or the Père Bise Restaurant on Lake Annecy, which are more geared to expense accounts than a passion for food. And not unlike the Rectiligne in Divonne, you feel that you are getting a lot of show without the gourmet savour to match.

Even more to the point, Shamwari comes across as stingy. And this is not just because the restaurant offers trim-conscious clients low calory menu items. Overall, the meal itself – we chose the four-course 45 Euro menu – smacked of parsimoniousness, particularly the fruit salad desert. Given the almost embarrassing smallness of the portions, one leaves hungry which, after a long day’s skiing or hiking in the outdoors, is not what one wants.

The presentation, however, was good. All the dishes, such as a light vegetable salmon and a coquille St Jacques with a light bisque sauce, which we took as starters, were attractively offered with appropriate solemnity. Sadly, the first was bland and the second had not been warmed properly. This was followed by an excellent combination mixed fish dish with cabillaud and crayfish, but our culinary excitement was marred by the fact that there was just not that much on the plate.

As one of us was driving, we ordered wine by the glass (10 Euros).  We tried an excellent Beaune red and a nice Loire Valley Pinot Noir, but you barely got a third of a small glass. Give us a break!

The overriding feeling was that the chef, who clearly knows his métier, was making an effort, but that some business manager had ordered him to cut back on the portions in the name of anti-recession efficiency. While the service is attentive and the décor exquisite with its polished wooden floors and deep chairs, the Shamwari is not a cathedral of haute cuisine. At least not yet.

Overall, the dinner, which came to 130 Euros for two, was good but our expectations were high from what we had heard. We left disappointed. Nevertheless, we’re willing to give the Shamwari another chance. We may try it again in the summer, particularly its lunchtime offerings. But the restaurant could be a bit more generous. It should also focus more on the cuisine with the client in mind rather than a business venture with a ticking off of all the boxes to ensure that everything functions smoothly. Good food should be about passion and seduction, not efficiency.

Also, given that the restaurant is part of the Lake Geneva area, we were rather shocked that it does not take Swiss francs. Virtually every establishment on both sides of the border from the village supermarket in Cessy to the Intercontinental Hotel in Geneva take Swiss francs and Euros. Particularly in this economy, the management should go for a bit of location realism. People want to eat well but will be increasingly careful about value and do not want to deal with the hassle of going to the ATM if you only have Swiss francs in your wallet or do not wish to use your credit card.

JIVA HILL PARK HOTEL

Route d'Harée 01170 Crozet, France

Tel. 33 (0)4 50 28 48 48 Fax. 33 (0)4 50 28 48 49

Email: This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it

RESTAURANT SHAMWARI T

Tel. 33 (0)4 50 28 48 47 Fax. 33 (0)4 50 28 48 49

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