PDF | Print | E-mail
Written by Editors
Sunday, 13 September 2009 02:59
Last June, Israel quietly adopted a new border policy that effectively prevents most foreign travelers who want to visit the occupied territories under the nominal control of the Palestinian Authority from getting back into Israel on the same visa (See TIME Magazine's on-line story on the new policy). In a sense the Israelis have begun to copy the small-mindedness of some Arab countries who refuse to admit anyone who has an Israeli stamp on their passport. In the Middle East, pettiness is an infectious disease. Not surprisingly, the latest Israeli strategy has not exactly won the hearts and minds of international travelers--especially those who were not forewarned. Laurel Hartig, a young American graduate student at the American University in Beirut, thought she would visit a friend in Ramallah. She offers the following vivid account of just how wrong things can go at the border for the casual traveler who makes the mistake of showing interest in anything Palestinian .
Laurel writes: I flew into Amman, Jordan on Wednesday night and left my bag at a fancy hotel near the Dead Sea, intending to pick it up later on my way to Beirut. I left for the border at 11am on Thursday morning. It was a half hour bus ride to the bridge and then another 20 minutes or so across a desolate moon-valley to somewhere in Israel...
At first everything was fine, we went to the VIP line with the other white people as the border guards screamed "la falastiniyeen!" at everyone else. (No Palestinians!) In front of me weresome Dutch tourists who wanted to visit Jerusalem. They passed quickly through.
To avoid the girl who was screaming at everyone, I went in the line with a quieter girl. All the border guards at the King Hussein Bridge seem to be 15-year old girls. They chew gum and wear skinny jeans. They scowl at the masses of Palestinians; families, old men in wheelchairs, women in groups of three or four. I wondered about them, if they came from school to work here in the summers, what their lives were like, why they wanted to do this?
The guard quietly took my passport and asked me a few questions. Something went wrong when I said I didn't want to visit Jerusalem, just the West Bank. They took my passport and disappeared into nowhere. While waiting for the first six hours in the area with other delayed travelers, I met a young guy from Boston.He was Palestinian and this was his first time traveling there. We talked and commiserated in between looking around and sighing and asking bored-looking guards if they had seen our passports.
We talked about the absurdity of our situation and how, as Americans, we were supposed to be "friends of Israel." I told him about the Arabic word sumood which means patience/ steadfastness. He wanted to go clubbing in Tel Aviv."Why?" I said, "don't you think it would be weird?" We made plans to meet up in Ramallah and go to a coffee house.
At the end of the day, all the windows were closing. Finally, as the last person, he received his passport. "I'll wait for you," he said. My heart leaped when I saw a sour looking lady carrying my passport. "Thank you so much," I said.
"We need to ask you some questions," she said. She took me aside. I was so nervous. She clarified my name and email, then she asked me about my time in Beirut. I told her it was a study program, organized by a translation service.She frowned. "Why do you like Arabs?" I didn't know what to say. Is it a crime in Israel to love Arabs? Is it a crime to study Palestinian art?
"Palestinian art?" she said, "like what?" "Lots of stuff," I said, " Plays,movies, books; everywhere, all over the world."
I didn't care, at that moment, whether she would reject my application. I had already seen enough. For almost six more hours, I sat in a cell, a small hallway with 12 plastic chairs, 768 holes each and three locked doors. Doors kept opening and closing as frustrated workers rushed back and forth with copies of my documents and other belongings. I must admit, I felt a bit of satisfaction everytime they dropped something or yawned or yelled at each other. Truly, the victimizer feels no pleasure and turns around lashing to attack his coworkers when there are no victims to be had. I watched the spots on the wall turn into trees, ships and castles. For about 15 minutes, a Palestinian-American man was brought in. They asked him questions about his relatives in Palestine. " I don't know them," he said, "I've never met them, I just wanted to go and see Jerusalem." They turned him away. I kept sitting. I plotted my revenge, I held imaginary conversations with my friends, I crafted an eloquent statement which they never gave me the opportunity to recite. Here it is, in case you were wondering: "I would like to say something. Frankly, I am ashamed of all of you. Because I am friends with Palestinians, you treat me like a criminal and you treat the Palestinians worse than criminals. You treat them like animals. I'm sure you are nice people, but if you care at all, you should find another job." As the time ticked by, I found it more surreal. I thought of another close friend who died on Monday. He was a playwright. I thought he would want me to be brave. I had the idea to turn my experience intoa one act play. I wanted to tell people what was happening. Then I became scared. What if the Israelis decide to kill me like Wael Zuaiter, the Palestinian translator and intellectual who was murdered in Rome in 1979? That won't happen, I thought, my parents will protest; my government will intervene. On second thought, would they really? What happened to American student Rachel Corrie? Were her murderers ever prosecuted?
I tried to protest in what ever ways I could. Once, I said I had to go to the bathroom. The man who was later to question me pointed the way to the bathrooms. When I tried to enter them, I saw there was soapy water all over the floor- there was no way I could walk across it. I turned to ask but there was no one there anymore, the halls were empty. I decided to make my way to the bathrooms on the other side of the wall of windows. I had seen them before. I went and came back, hearing the echo of my shoes on the smooth tiles. I tried to re-enter the room where I had been waiting.
"Stop!" I turned to see a young man. He was pointing a gun at me. They quickly hustled me back into the room and left me to wait again. Several times they offered me water or food; stale cookies that had lard in them which I could not eat. I refused every time, which annoyed them. My heart was pounding. I had bizarre thoughts of myself as Princess Leia. What did she do when she was held captiveby Darth Vader? She waited for Luke Skywalker and Han Solo to come and rescue her. Then, I remembered that she was made to stand and watch while her entire planet and family were blown up before her eyes.
The most important thing that I realized as I was sitting there, trembling is that the State of Israel- the most powerful military state in the region- is afraid of me. Me. I am a girl who asks questions, who follows her heart no matter how far from home it may take her. I just wanted to visit Ramallah. Just think of it. The mighty state of Israel is staying up late, rifling through my baggage, rubbing their eyes, trying to decide if an American student is actually a spy for Hezbollah. (post script: I am not a spy for Hezbollah).
The state of Israel as a military occupying power (that is not to say it might turn into something different) is doomed by its own moral failure to realize that the more you clamp down, the more security runs through your fingers. Safety can only be built in peace and with mutual respect. I am reminded of a quote from a Palestinian man in a newspaper: "Why don't you leave us alone so that we can teach our children to be friends with you?" I do recognize the need for Israelis to have security, but this security which they currently practice is excessive, unecessary and ridiculous. It is worrisome on numerous ethical and humanitarian levels.
Finally, I was taken into another room. After quickly passing a strange machine that looked like a stun capsule, I was taken to a curtained-off room with a female guard who ordered me to take off my clothes. She asked if I had any pockets and checked the seams of my skirt. She gave me sympathetic looks. "Don't worry," she said.
I refused to look at her. Just because you are a woman does not change the fact that you are violating me. I answered her questions curtly as I dressed again, aware for the first time that she envied me. I tried to dress slowly, letting it sink in that with every sleeve I was restoring my dignity, putting on a maskwhich obviously irritated my captors.
Although I am a Western tourist, I was not dressed, as many of them were at theVIP gate, in shorts and t-shirts, in marked contrast to the Palestinian women, most of whom were covered in veils and long dresses. I tried to dress appropriately. Perhaps, I would have been fine if I marched up to the gate in shorts, waving my guidebook and saying that I wanted to visit Jerusalem and studyHebrew. Perhaps I should have.
They then took me to an area where they opened up all my luggage. I couldn't help smiling at the fact that they thought they would find something. It was like living in a spy thriller. They tossed all my things in a pile. "Put your things away," he barked, as if I had taken them out. It was humiliating to have to quietly pack my things again, as if apologizing. They made me read the names of all the medicines in my kit and describe what they were for. "Cramps, you know, like a woman's thing?"
The man took out my jewelery, exclamining "ooh, is this real?" I said nothing is real except for my grandmother's ring. "Is itfor sale?" he asked. "No, it's not for sale." I said. Then we headed inside and the questioning began. My interrogator should have been a kind-looking man.When he opened the door and said "Hello," I knew that he was dangerous. He had the strangely gleaming eyes of someone whom life has broken and who in turn makes his living by breaking others. I thought he was capable of anything. He would lull you along with a few sentences of humor and then ask a sharp question. He was trying to trip me up and I was glad at that moment that I told the truth. I was too emotionally and physically exhausted to think about lying so I told the truth. I study politics and art. There was another woman in the room with us who later sat with me and never smiled nor said a word. I think she was a lie detector because she kept watching the corners of my mouth and the ways I fidgeted with my clothes. I felt like I was being constantly raped as with each question, I was forced to give up a piece of my life story to this creature.
"Please call my parents," I said, " they are waiting for me." He said he would but never did. They made me log in to my Facebook account. They played the songs on my iPod. They read my diary, after I made fun of him; "I'm sure you will find my life fascinating; my parents, my boy friend..."
"Just tell us if you have any links, any friends that you think we should know about," he said. If I really did, would I really be so stupid as to to tell him about it? I was harrassed and mocked for my love of Arab culture and wanting to learn Arabic. "Are you sure you don't want to learn Hebrew instead?" my interrogator asked in a sweetly mocking tone. "Do you want me to answer that?"I said. He flipped through every page of my notebook from a political science trip called the Beirut Exchange in January 2009. He paused when he came to the words Hamas or Hezbollah and asked me to read my notes and then explain them.He skipped right over the sections of human rights violations in Gaza and thesettlements. It seems he did not want to talk about them. He seemed surprised to learn that students from around the world had participated in this trip, making me repeat over and over again the nationality of each student and how to pronounce their name. He was also incredulous that they would teach Arabic at a college in the United States. "They teach that there?" He asked, as if to say,why? I think that they particularly didn't like the part of my notes where Robert Fisk referred to Israelis as Sampson and Delila.
For ten minutes, they put me in a room with queues of Palestinians waiting for their luggage to be screened. I think they wanted me to realize that I was lucky. It was strange to see the guards screaming and yelling at such well-behaved people. "Stay back!" But no one was doing anything. They kept hinting that I was going back to Amman. I never believed that I would actually get to see Ramallah. At that point, I didn't care. I had seen enough of Israel. Finally, at 12:30am, they suddenly dumped me out on the other side intoPalestine. There were more checkpoints to go through and it was so late. My hands were shaking because I had eaten nothing since 8am. I had no way to call my friend and I would have had to take two buses and a taxi to get to her house if they were still running and I felt myself break down and start crying. I didn't want her to have to deal with this. I think they did this on purpose also. I just wanted to see a friendly face. I wanted my friends and family.They granted me provisional entry for two weeks to the Palestinian Authority only. I feel sad for coming so close but I decided to go back. In my haze, I forgot to realize that when they waved it in front of my face, gloating, that the Israelis had stamped my passport on the way out. Now, I would not be able to go to Beirut for my school orientation.
The border patrol guard handed memy passport as I boarded the bus. "Have a nice day," another young boy with agun said. I was the only person on the bus. I started crying again and the driver asked me what was wrong. I explained to him that I wanted to go toRamallah but the Israelis were crazy and thought I was a spy for Hezbollah."I'm hungry," I said. He shook his head and rummaged in his bag for an apple.When we reached the border, the police came on the bus and asked me why I was returning. I couldn't speak because I was crying so they took me in- side and made me a cup of tea.
The chief of the police station gave me his cell phone number in case I needed anything before I got to the hotel. When I reached the station at King Hussein Bridge, I met again the officers who had checked my passport earlier in the day. I told them what had happened. They too were sympathetic. I tried to make jokes. They told me my Arabic was good. They called me a taxi, they woke someone up because it was nearly 2 in the morning. I said goodbye to the officer who had helped me. "Say hi to Hasan Nasrallah," he said, winking. I have never stopped being impressed by the hospitality of Jordanians. It is genuine and unaffected. They just wanted me to be safe. "We are brothers," said the taxi driver. He wanted me to stay with him and his mother because the hotel was too expensive. I finally reached the hotel after taking the Dead Sea Road. We passed miles of families parked in open- air trucks, picnic tables and cloths set up by the water. It was almost Ramadan. People were laughing and smoking argileh even though it was so late at night. I came back to the hotel and the hospitality of relative luxury.
I make no claims to know what I was doing. The stupidest thing was bringing the notebook. I just wanted to study my Arabic notes on the bus, I didn't remember that my Beirut notes were in there. Perhaps it is my American upbringing that has accustomed me to freedom of movement and self-expression. My story is not important in and of itself but for the ways in which it sheds light on the continuing patterns of Israeli paranoid suspicion as well as racism and occupation. In the last few days, I have heard many similar stories andreceived tips on how to pass through. Perhaps, I should have just lied to them, but who knows if that would have worked or not? I try to live a life of conscience. Unfortunately, in this world, it is very very difficult. We become political everytime we plug in our cellphone, eat oranges or shop for clothing in thousands of choices that have far-reaching consequences. We would never know if we did not seek to find out. There is a quote I like by the graphic artist Milton Glaser. He says, "Do not ask what am I doing? Ask, what stories am I implicated in?" In my life, I am implicated in the story of nonviolent Palestinian resistance. My life has led me this way and there is a pull that is stronger than coincidence. That is all I know. I just want to say that my heartbreaks for Palestinians and Arabs within Israel who have to live with the occupiers that I saw with my own eyes at the border. If evil has a face in this world, it is an Israeli bureaucrat. I deeply wanted (and still want) to visit my friends to enjoy Ramadan with them. Maybe next year. I am safe, in Amman, waiting for my new passport. I still feel scared that the Israelis will read my email, tap my phone or find me again someday. I never ever want to see them again but I would like to go to Palestine someday, I hear it's beautiful. This is only a beginning and not the end. We are the conscience of the world, we are its eyes and heart. If we don't speak up, who will?